Knitwear industry skills void following short-lived training venture

by EWAN LAMB

The Californian-based academic who recently assessed the prospects for the Scottish Borders woollen industry claims increased public support for 'skills formation' within the trade is imperative following the premature closure of Hawick's Centre of Excellence in Textiles.

When plans for the short-lived project were announced in 2018 - backed by a £610,000 financial package from the Scottish Government - its promoters, South of Scotland Enterprise [SOSE], Scottish Borders Council and a number of national agencies said it would "provide industry-specific training for both the current and future workforce."

According to Councillor Mark Rowley, then SBC's executive member for business and economic development: “This initiative will address business critical issues in the local textiles and knitwear sector and provide a stream of skilled young workers across all roles, enabling the world renowned Borders businesses in this sector to address succession planning issues and reduce or remove the need to send work overseas."

But following its 2019 opening the Centre of Excellence's activities were hit by the impact of the COVID pandemic, and it was forced to close in 2020. Additional proposals for a textile innovation centre and showcase and marketing facilities for the local industry in addition to the training centre were never implemented.

SOSE's Board minutes for February 2021 recorded: ".Challenges around the Textiles Centre of Excellence were raised, and the lack of clarity on its funding. SOSE was still engaging in the project and were discussing the way forward."

In his comprehensive research paper which was reported on in these columns last week Professor Allen Scott wrote: "A very recent initiative in the guise of the South of Scotland Enterprise organization – established in 2020 with significant support from the Scottish government – may well play a positive role in the region’s future economic development in general though its relevance to the woollen industry in particular is unclear.

"Thus far, the organization’s record of aid on behalf of the industry appears mainly to consist of limited financial support to a few firms for machinery upgrading, and its ill-fated experience with the Centre of Excellence in Textiles.”

In response to our questions regarding the 'ill-fated' Centre of Excellence, a detailed joint statement was provided on behalf of SOSE and SBC.

We were told: “The Centre of Excellence in Textiles was a pilot project launched in Hawick in March 2019, funded by the Scottish Government and led by Scottish Borders Council, with support from a range of partners. The Centre aimed to provide critical business skills for the textile and knitwear industry in the Scottish Borders.

 “There was positive work carried out by the Centre in its one year of operation before the COVID-19 lockdown saw it close in March 2020".

According to the statement a total of 32 individuals took part in 16-week training courses, with six going on to gain employment in the industry.

• Two university students gained employment in the industry after taking part in 16 week training courses associated with the Centre
• A positive relationship was developed with Hawick High School, helping to provide its young people with practical skills, as noted by a 2020 HMIE report
• Three local companies used the Centre to deliver training to their employees.
• The Centre also delivered a sampling and production service for the local and wider Scottish industry. Clients included local and national companies and students.

The spokesman then explained: “However, there were also a series of significant challenges, most notably the COVID-19 lockdown which began in March 2020. Its impact included training for one cohort of students ending midway through.

 “As a result of these challenges, a decision was made by Scottish Borders Council to end the pilot project in September 2021, with the Centre not seen as sustainable in the current climate. As part of a review of the Centre, SOSE appointed a consultant with extensive experience in the textile and knitwear industry to fully analyse the industry in the region, and provide some fresh thinking.

 “Their analysis recommended a series of options to ensure critical business skills are provided for the industry. It emphasised the importance of the chosen option of support being:

• sustainable
• focussed on business needs
• drawing on existing expertise and infrastructure
• straightforward and flexible
• measurable

“One sustainable option highlighted by the consultant was the introduction of a bespoke training programme. The provision, provided locally, would aim to develop and deliver courses which meet the requirements of industry and promotes the career of textiles as an exciting possibility. This proposal is currently being explored with partners and it is hoped an announcement can be made in the coming weeks to confirm a way forward.”

 Finally, the statement pointed out that earlier this year, SBC decided to lease the current Centre of Excellence in Textiles building and equipment to a local knitwear firm. This decision supported a local employer and ensured the building and equipment remained in use. 

"It is worth repeating that the Centre of Excellence in Textiles was a pilot project and as a result it has provided vital knowledge and lessons which will assist the public sector to support the industry going forward."